December 2021 / January 2022
Most tourists who visit the Kruger Park usually see two primates : the Vervet Monkey and the Chacma Baboon.
There is a third, exceptionally rare primate: the Samango Monkey.
In Kruger, it was found only in the extreme north and originally moved to the Punda Maria region from the forests of the Soutpansberg.
The policy of the SA National Parks is to reintroduce animals that were historically present in Kruger Park. As was done with White Rhino around 1968, Samango Monkeys were reintroduced to the Pafuri region between 1992 and 1998. These were animals that had caused problems in the Eucalyptus ( Blue Gum) plantations in the Soutpansberg region. The bark was stripped from the trees resulting in their death. Our Marula and other trees suffer the same fate at the hands, or more correctly, the tusks of elephants.
To the best of my knowledge the introduced Samango monkeys moved in and out of the Pafuri area of Kruger. I have been there several times and have never seen them.
The photo below was taken last week by a tourist of mine, Julia Gilbert, on the Mbhombe walking trail at Hilltop Camp in the Hluhluwe Game Reserve.
Samango Monkey in forest canopy
Samango Monkeys are on the Red Data list, meaning their status is classified as ‘Rare’ – a consequence of the destruction of their natural forest habitat by Man. Their long-term future outside of protected areas such as Hluhluwe is uncertain.
Compared to its cousin, the Vervet Monkey, Samangos are relatively shy and gentle. They spend most of their time in the tree canopies and their diet comprises mainly fruit and leaves.
GAME VIEWING REPORTS FROM OUR GUIDES
DECEMBER 2021
RAYMOND
On the 2nd December, on the Sundowner drive, next to Singwe Boma we found a pride of lions lying down next to the water hole. Then along came a bull giraffe to drink some water. He saw the lions at about fifty metres and he stopped to look at them and then one of them chased him. He ran for ten metres, then he turned and chased the lioness. She ran back and joined the rest of the pride and the giraffe went back into the bush.
On the 11th on our way to do the Bush Walk we found four lionesses and one young lion trying to catch an Impala but they failed and then started playing. One of them climbed a tree. On the Bush Walk we got a bull elephant and we approached him close enough to get a picture.
On 30th in Kruger along the Sweni road we found a big herd of elephants and one of them was in musth. He came towards us with attitude and stopped less than ten metres from us and then walked away to join the rest of the herd.
On the 31st we found a pride of lions lying down next to the Orpen gate reception. The pride included a white lion. At Nsemani Dam we got a big herd of elephants crossing the road. We found a large herd of buffalo about ten km from Satara. On our way back along the H-7 we found a male leopard right next to the road – great luck !
YURI
December has really given us a mixed bag of surprises. Kruger is teeming with wildlife and lots of babies everywhere. Sightings have been fantastic even though the bush is very green and thick presently.
AN EXTREMELY RARE FIND
On our way to our bush walk one morning we received a call on the radio and decided to take a chance and respond. After 20 minutes we arrived at the spot, and there it was, in the open. A pangolin! In my 20 years of bush life I have only seen this animal once. Seeing it out in the open like this was absolutely fantastic!
LOVE KILLS
One love-sick zebra had been patrolling a fence line close to Tremisana Lodge, having fallen in love with a female on the other side of the fence. This went on for about a month. One afternoon my Swiss guest and I went out for a drive and about 400m from the lodge we found the poor zebra. Already half eaten by 5 lions. Poor guy never got the chance to be with his girl.
EARLY CHRISTMAS GIFT
On Christmas eve I was in Kruger National Park with a group of German and American guests. For some reason I decided to back track all the way back to Rabelais, having a gut feeling that we might come across something good. Boy, did we find something good! I caught movement from the corner of my eye, and there, next to us, was a beautiful female leopard. The best of all is that she was not shy at all and we were the only vehicle there. She allowed us to follow her for at least 20 minutes. A great Christmas Gift!
BOXING DAY BONUS
On the 26th my British clients and I went out for an early evening game drive. This was to be their final game drive, but it was more of a fun drive, as they had already seen so much during their 5 days with us, but as a farewell present there were 3 lions lying in the middle of the road.
DAGGA BOY DINNER
Out on a late afternoon drive with my German clients we noticed a lot of vultures in the trees in the Oxford area. We started heading towards where the biggest concentration of vultures were when we were met by the sight of 6 lions that had killed a big old buffalo bull. A very big meal for 6 lions.
Wishing everyone the best for 2022!!! Let us hope that we can get back to some kind of normality in the New Year.
PATRICK
On 1st December I guided in Kruger and had a great day : lions on the S 90, 3 herds of buffalo along the same road, elephants taking a bath at Nsemani Dam and lots of general game.
On 4th we had a super sighting of lions on the road along the H 7, followed by a lioness on a kill at Nsemani Dam. There must have been over 50 vultures waiting. Hyenas on the H 7 as well and plenty buffalo and elephants all over.
On the 8th we had lions again on the H 7, buffaloes at Nsemani Dam, and a fortunate sighting of 2 cheetah near the S 36/S 39 junction. There were elephants everywhere and one of my guests reckons we saw over 200 in the day !!!
TOLLI
The weird and wonderful nature of the bush.
We had the privilege to see some of the weirdest and amazing animals this month, most of them nocturnal, very rare and endangered.
We saw a pangolin on the 12th of December on our way back from a bush walk. This was only my second sighting of this extraordinary animal in over 20 years.
Pangolins are nocturnal and solitary and their youngsters ride on their mother’s back or tail. Pangolins defend themselves by rolling up in a tight ball and have sharp, overlapping plated scales, and it has a pointed small head and a flat tail. Pangolins walk on their hind legs and have a forward bending posture. Their diet consists of ants and termites that they eat with their long sticky tongues after they opened the mounds with their sharp claws.
This is a Spoonbill and forms part of the Ibis family. We saw it on the same day at Tremisana dam. Spoonbills have this strange spatula shape bill to feed on small organisms that live in the water, like flamingos do. This bill is a true filtering bill and they swing the bill from side to side in an arc and is one of Nature’s best adaptations for their unique feeding habits.
On the weird list is this strange water animal – the Hippopotamus. They become very insecure as soon as they leave their comfort zone in the water. They will do anything to get back to the water when they are threatened. That is why so many people are killed by this temperamental grass-eating mammal that grazes at night and sleeps most of the day or sunbathes on the river banks. Hippos are good swimmers and can also run under water and run very fast on land. The babies can be born in or outside the water and suckle most of the time under water because the Hippo spends most of the day in the water. Hippos secretes a pink fluid that protects them against sunburn and help heal their wounds especially when territorial bulls fight.
The Lesser Jacana that we saw in Kruger National Park on the 28th of December is much smaller than his bigger, better-known brother, the African Jacana. It loves to forage between aquatic plants and the extremely long toes help the bird to walk on water plants. This is a rare water bird and looks quite odd with its strange legs.
Then you get giraffes drinking water – probably the strangest ritual of all. First they have to bend their legs and bring their stiff necks down and when you finish slurping up the water you have to give a quick jerk of water in a whip like motion.
Here are a few more photos that I took during December 2021.
JANUARY 2022
RAYMOND
On the 4th at Impala Bush West on Olifants Reserve we found three lionesses and one male lion hunting and walking on the road for more than 100 metres.
On the 12th on the H-7 about 4 km from Satara we found 4 male lions one of which was white. They were hunting. Then all of them lay in the middle of the road.
On the 14th at Tremisana lodge there was big elephant in musth next to the car park coming very close to us.
On the 20th north of Campfire we had a great sighting of impalas, zebras and giraffes. Later we saw four bull elephants and two black rhinos. There was some impala alarm-calling when we got there. We had great luck in seeing a leopard trying to catch one of them. He failed and came and passed right in front of us.
On the 21st about 200 metres from Kingfisher crossing In Kruger we found a pride of lions with two white females. About 500 metres further on, we found more than 15 Wild Dogs next to the road.
On 25th in Kruger at Sweni we found five lions eating a zebra next to the road. After lunch about 7km from Satara towards Orpen we found a cheetah walking on the road for more than two hundred metres. She was heavily pregnant – I reckoned less than three days to go.
YURI
Happy January everyone!
From my side, I didn’t do much guiding this month, but, what you might not know is that I’m also a passionate cook and I’ve had the pleasure of spending most of this month cooking for our esteemed clients. I’m going to share with you two of the hits of the month:
1. BANANA BRAN MUFFINS
INGREDIENTS
1. 2 Eggs
2. 2/3 cup sugar
3. 3 ripe bananas. Mashed
4. 1 cup buttermilk
5. 1/4 cup canola oil
6. 1 tsp vanilla extract
7. 1 1/2 cup nutty wheat flour
8. 3/4 cup cake flour
9. 1 1/2 tsp baking powder
10. 1/2 tsp bicarbonate of soda
11. 1/2 tsp cinnamon
12. 1/4 tsp salt
13. 1/2 cup raisins
METHOD
Mix all wet ingredients together
Mix all dry ingredients together
Slowly mix wet with dry
Spoon into greased muffin tins
Bake at 180°c for 20-25 minutes
2. SWEETCORN SOUP
1. Prepare 1.5l chicken stock & bring to a boil
2. Add 4 large potatoes, peeled & cubed
3. When potatoes are soft, add 2 tins creamed sweetcorn
4. Add paprika and salt & pepper to taste
5. Blend with stick blender till smooth
6. Return to low heat & add 1/2 cup of unsweetened cooking cream
7. Stir well & serve hot
Enjoy!
TOLLI
I asked Tolli to send his best photos taken in January :
PIERO
Together with Sandra, I went up to Tremisana the day after Christmas to celebrate my granddaughter, Seanna’s 12th birthday on 27 December.
It was hellish hot but we had some great game viewing. Lions killed a buffalo on Oxford and we took some brilliant photos.
There were many vultures waiting patiently for 4 days:
It was good and useful to have both my sons, Anthony and Marc, with us :
In January I conducted two separate safaris to Hluhluwe Game Reserve and Ismangaliso Wetland Park. These guests booked the 7 day Kruger and KZN safari package. Thankfully, on both safaris, we saw rhinos with horns intact :
This safari package also includes a trip to Cape Vidal in the Ismangaliso Park, where all the guests had a swim and were astounded at the temperature of the warm Indian ocean – I was told by the locals it was around 23C !
After Cape Vidal, the tour includes a boat trip at the St Lucia estuary where we get really close to hippos :
NEWS FROM OUR LODGES
We were able to offer yet another full-time position to another of our staff : Pieters is an excellent thatcher.
Pieters has been busy combing all thatch roofs at all our lodges. He also built a thatch umbrella on the deck of our villa at Marula Boma, where my son, Marc and friends saw in the new year.
TREMISANA
Nyarai sent the following reports :
DECEMBER
I can hardly believe that the year has come to an end. Time moves fast and we are already in December. Wasn’t it January a few weeks ago ? As the year wraps up, I take time out just to reflect on how the year has been. It has not been the best but it is okay because we are still here. The ability to wake up every day underneath the African sky with a wakeup call from the birds in the garden, to open up our doors to guests and have them show up despite what has been happening in the world is a blessing for us. I hope that each and every one has had a reason to celebrate this festive season too.
This month was characterized with a mix of hot days and rainy days. The vegetation is now a glorious green and dense with beautiful highlights of colour from the flowers in full bloom. We had awesome animal sightings of lions, wild dogs, elephants, zebras, giraffes etc around Tremisana as a cherry on top. Special mention goes to the little super stars of the bush : our new born babies. It is baby season and we couldn’t be much happier. We have new baby vervet monkeys at the lodge. I must say that I am really fascinated with how the vervet monkeys at the lodge take care of their young ones in a similar fashion to humans : the way they carefully groom their babies, carry them and suckle them. They do it with so much care and love.
December has always been one of my favourite months of the year. The joy that most people exhibit makes one forget the bumpy road we had to go through till we got to the end of the year. Growing up December was always family time, lots of gifts and food. I was always super excited opening gifts from my parents. My parents would always ask me to guess what I was getting each year. I would try my best to guess. Sometimes I would get it right and sometimes I would be way off the mark. Whatever answer I gave i always had the surety that whatever the gift was I was going to love it. I feel that December time we receive the gift of the New Year wrapped up in hope of better days. One can never be really sure what the New Year has in store but my optimism always pushes me to believe that it will be a better year. We made it through the year as a business despite the pandemic, the numerous restrictions because of the amazing support we received from our agents and our guests. We are forever grateful and we appreciate each and every one of you.
Cheers to new beginnings and really fulfilling our New Year’s Resolutions.
Happy New Year .
JANUARY
Welcome to the New Year!! We are open and ready to welcome our guests once again. I have high expectations for this year. The tourism industry went through a lot last year coupled with a lot of setbacks. I am amazed that we managed to keep our doors open. We had a good number of guests come to our lodges this month. A lot of countries are beginning to allow people to travel again and, if we have no more lockdowns, we shall see a steady increase in the number of guests. January days have been filled with a lot of sun with refreshing rains breathing life into our gardens. The monkeys are always around being mischievous as usual. You would love to hate them but the babies are just too adorable.
This month we had eight lions about a minute away from our parking lot at Tremisana. I cannot begin to describe the excitement I had. One can stay in the bush for a long time but the joy of experiencing animal sightings in a face to face setting is beyond words. I was amazed how relaxed they were in the shadow of the trees. If I didn’t know any better I would have been tempted to get up close but I love them from afar least I became a late lunch. Now, when I go to the parking lot, I pay extra attention. I can never be sure what I will meet. The bush is a place full of surprises and it sure keeps on giving them.
This past weekend I was sitting in the office and I saw an animal walk leisurely past my door. I was questioning myself if I had seen correctly. I went out and to my delight there was a Nyala. The last time I saw them was when I had gone down to Marcs Camp which was last year some months ago. I love how calm they are around people. I quickly grabbed my phone from the office and took a picture. Any chance to take a snap I am on it. At the end of the day we had four of them inside of the lodge. Maybe they were running away from the pride of lions we had seen a few days ago. We also had hyenas, elephants, zebras and giraffes around the lodge. I really don’t have to wander off far to see the animals. How awesome is that, our own episodes of national geographic in our back yard? Yes indeed.
Have you ever realized how fast time moves. A few weeks back we were celebrating the New Year and we are already at the end of January. As the year starts most people are very outspoken about all the things that they intend to achieve and quick to write to them down whilst forgetting that words without action do not produce results. Now is the time to start putting your plans into motion and I am certain by the end of the year we will be talking about how we won again. Achievements do not come by merely talking about them. They require hard work. If you must achieve your goals or get something done, quit talking and start working.
Until next time always remember “A roaring lion never catches game’’.
KATEKANI
It has been very quiet at Katekani as most guests have bought safari packages staying at Tremisana Lodge.
The leopard has consequently become a little less shy and Mandla, caretaker, advises that he sees signs and tracks every day.
In fact, an impala was killed and hidden under the deck of room 1.
MARCS TREEHOUSE LODGE and MASANGO CAMP
Richard, our caretaker, advises that he now packs away all his clothes and especially his shoes in case the hyena clan decides to appropriate these. Richard has been busy creosoting all wooden poles and he keeps the camps neat and tidy. We have had a few tourists at Marcs and all love the wildness of the place.
The nyala are very tame.
A buffalo bull has taken up residence at Masango Camp Dam.
NEWS FOR OUR TRAVEL PARTNERS
December was a tough month. On the 28th October 2021 we had 21 confirmed departures and may have even achieved a figure close to 31 ( meaning one a day for the month of December). And then along came Omicron !
We ended up with 12 departures from Johannesburg. It may seem good compared to some other lodges but a few of these were safaris with single guests. In these cases we lose money, but we have decided to take all bookings. Sooner or later the agents that book single travellers will book more than one guest.
January was only slightly better. What is keeping Viva Safaris afloat is the deposits paid by guests for safaris later in the year and even in 2023.
I anticipate the tough trend will continue but hope that, by the second half of the year, things will have improved.
I attach some reviews posted on Tripadvisor in the last 2 months :
VIVA SAFARIS:
Over The top experience!!
Tripped_Up_Vermont
We just finished an 11 day safari with Viva Safaris. I am in South Africa for two months with my 22 year old son. This safari was the start of our African adventure and it FAR exceeded our expectations. From the time we were picked up at our hotel in Johannesburg to the time they dropped us off in Ballito 11 days later, we were treated so well. Everyone was caring, welcoming, friendly. We stayed at Tremisana for 4 nights, Marc’s treehouse for 3 nights, and Pumusa Camp for 3 nights. Each place was wonderful. At this time there are very few visitors, which means personalized service, National parks with very few cars, and an amazing chance to see animals when your jeep is the only vehicle around.
Our game drives around Tremisana were very exciting (thank you, Jurie and Raymond!) — one night we saw a pride of lions heading out for a hunt (thanks to Jurie they walked by our jeep) and another night we saw a rare leopard (thanks to Raymond’s crafty maneuvering). Kruger was incredible. We didn’t have a list of animals in mind but if we did, we could have checked it off several times. Lions napping in the road, buffalo, an elephant bathing, zebras, a mother hyena nursing her pups, rhino, wild dogs. All of this was close enough that we didn’t need binoculars and often they were very near our jeep. My phone camera was good enough to capture close ups. Jurie and Raymond are very knowledgeable and we learned so much about the park and the animals.
For a different adventure we went to Marc’s treehouse and chose the highest treehouse available—super fun to be up at the top of the trees! (There are ground level huts with bathrooms for those who want them). Momma D, the cook from Tremisana, came with us. So kind. And a wonderful cook. We were spoiled. We spent a day visiting a local town and orphanage. I highly recommended this as a way to learn more about South Africa and to help the local population. We stopped at a store on the way and picked up some school supplies for the kids. The folks at the orphanage had prepared a meal for us and the kids and we got to see their dances as well as play football (we brought a couple of balls for them).
At Pumusa we met up with Piero, the general manager for Viva Safaris. He has over 30 years of guiding and our trip to Imfolozi Park was wonderful. Not only did we get to see more rhino and buffalo close to the road, we learned a lot about the history of South Africa. I don’t think you will find someone who knows more about the animals of South Africa. He was able to identify every bird call we heard. While we were out, we had picnic lunches,a brai, a swim in the beautiful Indian Ocean. Incredible. Andre, the chef from Pumusa, came along and provided all the meals and a few surprise treats.
A special call out to George, the driver, who was with us from Johannesburg to the last day of our safari. Thank you for your kindness and humor. I hope we will have the opportunity to see you on another trip some day.
I had considered a self tour to save costs but I am so glad I didn’t. The guides, and all the staff, at Viva Safaris went above and beyond to make sure that we had a once in a lifetime experience. I never would have been able to see all that we did by driving solo. They are very reasonably priced , the accommodations are clean, and we always felt safe and welcomed.
Thank you, Viva Safaris!
Julia and Isaac
TREMISANA:
Spiritual
Props
My experience couldn’t have gone any better. While weather impacted some parts of my stay, staff and management upgraded my experience even though this was out of their control. However possible, staff updated my itinerary to still provide me with the package I paid for and more including upgrading my lodging for a more comfortable stay. My dietary needs as a vegan were also accommodated and cared for by staff. The drivers were all impressive and dedicated to ensuring game drives were action packed and educational. I would recommend Tremisana to anyone visiting Kruger. It was an experience with wildlife I’ll never forget.
I also include an email received :
Dear Piero
Thank you for keeping us on your emailing list for your monthly newsletter. We revel in it each month and sometimes share it with friends.
Although it is a number of years since our safari with Viva and that we live in Cape Town and are now in our eighties, it is still on our bucket list to visit again when our health permits.
In the meantime we become armchair travelers with you every month. It brings back vivid memories. It also caused me to read Mario Cesare’s three books about his life as a game ranger particularly at Olifants West. He now lives in Doordrift Village, Constantia.
May Viva Safaris grow from strength to strength when Covid is finally contained.
Best wishes
Alan and Lorna Hurford
A reader of the newsletter has asked which other famous persons I have guided, besides the Italian VIPs I wrote about in the November 21 newsletter. There have been quite a few, but the best known is probably Oprah Winfrey who, together with her entourage, was my guest in 1994.
Until next month,
With kind regards,
Piero
General Manager
Viva Safaris
