The dry winter spell has become a dry spring spell and the threat of a serious drought is looming. We have had no rain this September and the temperatures have soared to the early forties. The result is a very dry veld, with very little to eat for the herbivores. This situation results in some unusual behaviour. The warthog sounder at Tremisana has grown to over a dozen members. They have moved into the camp on a permanent basis. From time to time our gardeners have to fish a warthog out of the swimming pool. The grass around the pool is under strain as the warthogs are eating anything that has a remotely green look. At Marc’s Treehouse Lodge, we have a sad situation where our nyala are too weak to move very far. Our tourists can get up to within a metre before these elegant antelope move away.
Besides the warthogs’ suffering, we have noticed a number of kudu bulls in very poor condition. Kudu are browsers and the leaves on the trees are making an extremely slow appearance this year. We know of a number of kudu bulls that have died. The bulls are generally heavier than the kudu cows and therefore need a larger amount of sustenance. Hence the kudu bulls generally die before the cows.
On Balule, the buffalo herd has broken out of the reserve into adjoining land in search of pasture. They have crossed the tar road and we have had to employ the services of a helicopter. The pilot skillfully chases the animals back into the reserve. The trouble is that in their desperate hunger, the buffalo will break the fence again so it becomes quite expensive to hire a helicopter every time they break out.
The hot and dry conditions are resulting in a lot less surface water available to the animals. We have been keeping the artificial watering points at Tremisana and Cheetah Inn full. The steady stream of animals and birds at Tremisana has kept our guests at the Lapa thoroughly entertained. At Marc’s the Breakfast Dam has had some water pumped into it from the Klaserie River. Daily visits by buffalo and rhino testify to the absence of any other surface water nearby.
In Kruger the Timbavati river has five pools in it and the Nwanedzi River has about seven pools. Animals are congregating around these pools and the artificial waterholes in ever increasing numbers. The animals are getting enough water, albeit brackish, but the problem with the drought is the shortage of food. I have noticed protruding bones in just about every ungulate species – even the zebra appear to have lost that healthy rotund shape.
While we feel sorry for the plight of the hungry animals, a drought period is always a good period for gameviewing. September 2008 will go down as an exceptionally good month for Big Five sightings. We have had as many as eight different lion sightings in one day! Buffalo and elephant are constantly found along the river beds and rhino and leopard sightings have been excellent this month.
GAMEVIEWING
BONGANI has had an excellent month. His report indicates many exciting days. A typical day’s sightings were those experienced on 3 September: “I drove along the S 100, then to Gudzani and back to Satara on the S 90. A few km down the S 100 we came across a leopard feeding on an impala which had been carried up a tree. A few black-backed jackal were under the tree waiting for scraps of meat to fall. Three km from the leopard, we found a pair of mating lions. A large bull elephant came out of the bush and walked steadily towards the lions. They moved off slowly, not really too concerned about the elephant. We drove on and found two lions eating a zebra near Gudzani; they were being watched by a large number of vultures as well as five hyenas.”
On the 5th September, Bongani viewed the Big Five in a 25 km stretch from Satara north towards Olifants: “There were huge numbers of animals between Satara and Olifants. A few km north of Satara, we found two White Rhino. Five km further we got a leopard near the road. Only four km on, we came across a herd of four bull elephants and another km on we found a small group of buffalo bulls. Just north of Ngotso Dam we came across a pride of two male and four female lions eating a giraffe right on the road. ”
 
On the 25th September Bongani and his very fortunate clients witnessed two big male lions attacking and killing a blue wildebeest on the S 100.
On the 26th September Bongani conducted a 4 hour walk on Balule Plains. He reports as follows: “Early in the morning, shortly after witnessing a beautiful sunrise, we came across two White Rhinos. We were able to approach to within 30 metres of them. Soon thereafter I found very fresh lion spoor. I asked my guests whether they were happy to track down the lions. They all agreed enthusiastically. We followed the spoor in complete silence and with the wind blowing favourably; I knew we were getting really close. Then suddenly we saw them, a mere 100 metres ahead. We kept going and at about 75 metres, the one lion noticed us. He looked straight at us and then looked away, showing he was not interested in us. Later that afternoon, on the 4 hour game drive I returned to the spot we had seen them and, about 400 metres away, found the lions on a zebra kill – they must have killed shortly after we had seen them on the walk “.
NELLY had a good month as well. He reports his highlights as follows: “At the beginning of the month, we came across a pride of lions on a buffalo kill only 5 km along the S 100. There were two males, four females and two cubs. We spent over an hour watching them eating. The following day we found a leopard eating a common duiker up a tree near the road. Later that day we came across two mating rhino near Mzanzene.”
Nelly saw the Nwanedzi bridge pride again – this pride consists of two lionesses and four cubs and has been operating around the bridge area for the last three months.
Nelly came across six cheetah near Hlangulene. Later that day, he stopped at the waterhole near the Mzanzene picnic spot and found a leopard stalking impalas, but they got away. Not so lucky was a young kudu that was taken by a pride of lions on the Timbavati Road. The guests saw the actual kill and were amazed at the pitiful death cries of the kudu. As the kudu was making this sound, more lions converged on the victim, some rushing past the front of the car. In total there were 13 lions scrapping for a share of the meat.
THULANI also had his share of lion kills: On the Talamati road he and his guests found lions on a buffalo kill near Timbavati; 13 lions on a giraffe at Ngotso North and the 6 lion pride eating a zebra at the Nwanedzi Bridge. He reports two very unusual sightings: A herd of buffalo chased a leopard up a Leadwood tree near Gudzani and a civet was decapitated by lions at the Sweni waterhole. Thulani reports that his bush walks at Marc’s have been good with regular sightings of giraffe, rhino, buffalo, nyala, impala and monkeys.
BERTUS reports as follows: “This month was my best ever for lions both in Balule and Kruger. On our 4 hour drives from Tremisana, we have often seen the pride of 12 including two big males and four younger males. We first saw them drinking from a waterhole not more than three metres away. The following day we came across them on a buffalo kill on Balule Plains. We are also seeing a younger male around Tremisana itself. He is very shy and although I pick up fresh spoor on a daily basis, I struggle to get good sightings.”
Bertus says he has had excellent leopard sightings this month and reports two memorable occasions: “I was driving between Letaba and Olifants and had stopped for a herd of elephants. One of my eagle-eyed guests looked up a tree and …a young leopard! It was after a troop of monkeys that had climbed to higher smaller branches where the leopard was unable to go. The leopard was effectively trapped in the tree as the elephants were in the shade all around the base of the tree. The leopard, in its total frustration, was spitting and snarling, but the elephants ignored it completely. It eventually jumped down and made a hasty retreat, with the elephants still ignoring it.
I was told by the other guides about the leopard cub near Ngotso. I finally saw the young cub busy eating an impala not 10 metres from the road. After he was full, he walked to a tree against which an elephant was snoozing. The leopard proceeded to climb up the tree and went and lay on a branch about 3 metres directly above the elephant. When the mother leopard arrived the elephant woke up and angrily chased her away.”
TOBY has had a few great days. He was given the responsibility of showing my Godfather, Bruno, his first lions in Kruger. Bruno had been to Kruger over 20 times before and had never seen lions or leopards. True to form, Toby found lions – and what a sighting: On 11 September the S 100 delivered again: a pride of seven lions had pulled down a buffalo two metres from the road. About 10 km further on Toby showed Bruno and his fellow guests a leopard that was stalking an impala. So now I know the Godfather will recommend Viva. Well done, Toby!
On the 15th September Toby showed his guests 4 of the 5 in Kruger – he missed rhino. So what happens – on the road from the front gate of Marc’s to the main lodge, Toby drove into a herd of three Rhino! When you’re good, you’re good!
On the 17th, Toby and Bertus, each with his own vehicle and guests, saw two White Rhino inadvertently wander into the grazing circle of a herd of elephants. Both guides expected the rhino to be routed and both were wrong. In an unusual turnabout, the elephant herd was put to flight!
Toby reports his best game walk at Marc’s to date: he and his excited guests saw three rhino, nine buffalo and four giraffe – all closer than 25 metres. Good on you, Mate!
NEWS AT TREMISANA
TREMISANA’s grass has all but disappeared as a result of the warthogs. The area is very dry and the non-appearance of the weaver birds is not a good omen. A few frogs have arrived and have started their raucous calling.
Our handyman, Eric, has been busy. Among other things, he has erected a TV stand for our newly acquired DSTV. It is another acquisition that some tourists have requested – although I personally cannot see what good can come on a relaxing safari from following the CNN news of the world‘s present economic woes.
Pearl has made new uniforms for the lady staff and they have decided, only on the odd occasion though, to give us a song or two. It would be nice to have singing every night, but I suppose the ladies have to be in the right mood for it.
Comments from Tremisana's Guest Book
Tammi Macquine, tmacquine@hotmail.com, 2 Sept: “WOW - I have had the most amazing time here. You are so very lucky to be able to experience this every day! Thank you for welcoming me so warmly. You are all such beautiful people. I know I am leaving a part of me behind as I have fallen in love with South Africa, especially Balule Plains! I have a favour to ask: Please, please, please, remember each day how lucky you are to be at Tremisana seeing the awesomeness of God’s creation”
Benedicte Westin, Benedicte.westin@start.no, 6 Sept: “Four Norwegians had the time of our lives!!! Thanks to Delina and her staff. Bertus really did the trick: we changed our flight to stay one more day and Bertus took it home – we’ll be back”
Anna Roche, rochesinoz@hotmail.com , 14 Sept: “Peart, Bertus, Delina, Toby - thank you for a wonderful 5 days. We have seen all the animals and learnt a lot. But more than that, we have made some friends and shared lots of experiences, fun, laughter and wisdom. It has been like coming home – and we will be back again”
NEWS AT MARC’S
MARC’s has had a good cleanup. All wooden structures have been revarnished. We have completed the rewiring of the whole camp. Ronald has had to rebuild the floor of treehouse 2 which was tilting quite badly.
Lauren, our hostess, has settled well. I notice that the urban long nails have shortened somewhat and the high heel shoes have been replaced by flat walking shoes. She is becoming a genuine bushwoman!
Jonathan Beretta, our Warden, informs me that he has successfully negotiated the purchase of, wait for it,…..a herd of 5 elephants from Thornybush Game reserve. He has also arranged for a mature bull from Kruger to join this herd. So there it is: my nightmare of treehouses being pushed into the Klaserie River is real! We have accepted the situation and realize that the presence of elephants will enhance the status of Marc’s Treehouse Lodge. Practical steps are already in full swing: we are busy fencing in the staff quarters and will be erecting a single strand high voltage wire all around the treehouses and main building. This wire will be at the right height to keep out elephants and rhino but still allow passage for nyala and other antelope.
Rhino and calf spotted on a bush walk at Marc's
An extremely rare sighting of a NARINA TROGON that frequents Marc’s
Comments from Marc's Guest Book
Jasmine Baues, jasmine.baues@gmail.com , 2 Sept: “We thoroughly enjoyed our stay here. The highlight, of course, was the buffalo herd at dinner. Thanks for sharing your world with us. Love always”
Marc and Nikki Hopper, hopnic@hotmail.co.uk , 13 Sept: “Thoroughly enjoyable experience! On our 14th anniversary we were blessed to see a lion kill close to the road and a leopard about 20 m away – something we’ll never forget!
Food was good and Marc’s Treehouse has a friendly atmosphere – we felt very welcome! Accommodation in the treehouse was brilliant, something different! ”
Nicky Skevington, 19 Sept: “What a fabulous excellent chilled out place! Toby and Lauren is relaxed great people to be around. I love this place! Game drive was the best I had been on in 2 and half months! A great ending to my trip in Africa. A BIG THANK YOU to all and the monkeys!!”
NEWS AT CHEETAH INN
CHEETAH INN has had all rooms fitted with new air conditioners. This is a very welcome addition, especially when the old mercury hits the forties! The staff quarters have been upgraded and the piece of ground across the tar road has been thoroughly cleaned up.
The Cheetah Inn will be the main base for volunteers who will be joining our 10 day volunteer safari program. For further particulars, see our website: www.volunteersafaris.co.za
NEWS FOR OUR TRAVEL PARTNERS
As mentioned above, Viva Safaris has started a new project: Volunteer Safaris.
We have developed a really exciting new product – a splendid mix of community service and fun-filled experiences in the bush. Please see the website www.volunteersafaris.co.za for the details of our 10 day program. We are pleased to be instrumental in putting back something into the community that surrounds our lodges.
Our 2009 tariffs will be ready in the next week. I am still trying to gauge what the petrol price will be doing next year as well as what we can expect in terms of inflation etc. I have, amongst my past students, a few who have made it really big in the banking world, but even they inform me that things are so volatile that they don’t really wish to predict how costs will rise. I know very well that you, our valued agents, wish to have a fixed tariff structure for the whole of 2009. I fully understand that it is not good policy to have unexpected increases half way through the year.
So please bear with me for just a little longer while I try to work it all out. All I can do is promise you that Viva will keep to its fundamental business tenet and continue to offer the very best value-for-money safaris to Kruger Park.
With kind regards,
Piero
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