May 2007 will be remembered throughout South Africa as the coldest May ever. Around the 20th of the month a bitterly icy cold front hit the Cape with a vengeance and within 24 hours the entire country was shivering ! New record minimum temperatures were set all over the country. In the Kruger Park temperatures of below zero were recorded at a number of camps. At Tremisana the minimum touched zero while at Marc's and Cheetah Inn the minimum went to minus two.
The cold has consequences for the animals, and we noted three interesting things :
1. We found lions after sunset on the tar road outside the Kruger. They very reluctantly moved off the tarmac. What was happening was that the lions had come onto the tarmac to benefit from the heat that had been absorbed by the tarmac surface.
2. The calls of hyenas, jackals and lions appeared to sound louder and closer. What happens here is that the cold air provides a denser medium for the propagation of the sound waves. Lion roars can thus carry for over five km.
3. Bushbabies seen on night drives were not seen jumping from tree to tree. The cold weather ensured that they saved energy and remained static in the branches.
Another consequence noted was that some of the trees, notably the bushwillows, had their green leaves turn brown overnight. In due course these leaves will fall from the trees and it may have an effect on browsing animals. Grass appears to have withstood the cold and although most of the grass is yellow-brown, there are numerous areas where green sprouts have remained.
No rain was associated with the cold snap and the veld is drying out. Consequently gameviewing has improved significantly from April 2007. The paucity of surface water has resulted in the development of large congregations of animals around the waterholes and river courses.
We encountered a herd of over 200 zebra and a huge herd of around 1000 buffalo is presently grazing around Satara.
These impressive sightings along with large breeding herds of elephant are surely the precursor of some excellent winter gameviewing.
To keep our guests from struggling with the cold, we have been transferring them in the closed Toyota Quantums ( with heating ) to Orpen Gate. There they board the open vehicles and we have been supplying blankets for the morning chill. By 10h00 all blankets are packed away as the temperatures reach the mid-twenty mark. When we have offered our guests the choice of remaining in the closed vehicles instead of using the open vehicles, there has only been one ( unanimous ) response. Even the cold conditions cannot affect our clients' thrill of seeing animals without intervening glass ! It is pleasing to see such spirited determination on their part - they really want to get close to Nature.
GAMEVIEWING IN KRUGER
I have received the most recent census of mammal numbers in Kruger Park :
Lion 1 500
Leopard 1 000
Cheetah 200
Wild Dog 350
Hyena 2 000
Elephant 13 000
White Rhino 8 000
Black Rhino 350
Hippo 3 000
Warthog 5 000
Giraffe 7 700
Buffalo 30 000
Zebra 22 000
Kudu 13 500
Waterbuck 5 000
Wildebeest 8 000
Impala 120 000
When I compare these figures to figures that I collected in the early 1970's there are a number of significant observations to be made.
Over the 35 years that the comparison is made, we note :
1. The elephant population has trebled .
2. The lion population has dropped by 20 %
3. White Rhino numbers have increased over tenfold
4. Giraffe have increased by 20 %
5. Leopard, Wild Dog, Hyena, Hippo, Waterbuck, Zebra and Impala populations have remained fairly constant.
6. Wildebeest numbers have dropped by 50 %
7. Kudu numbers have increased by 25 %
While the number of White Rhino in Kruger now exceeds the total number in the rest of the world, the Black Rhino have not done as well. Both species were exterminated in Kruger and reintroduction programmes were initiated in the 1960's. It is clear that the habitat for Black Rhino ( thickets ) is a limiting factor.
The elephant population has been discussed in a number of my previous newsletters. I personally believe that the figure of 13 000 is an underestimate. This has probably occurred because the number of elephants in the private reserves such as Balule, Timbavati and Klaserie have not been counted.
What concerns me the most, as I am sure it concerns other interested stakeholders and lovers of Kruger Park, is the declining number of wildebeest. I investigated recent research on lion predation stats in Central Kruger and realized that almost 50% of all lion kills in this section are on wildebeest. The drop in wildebeest numbers probably correlates to the drop in lion numbers. I have had the good fortune of often watching lions waiting at a waterhole waiting to ambush the thirsty animals. When mixed groups of zebra and wildebeest approach the waterhole, it is invariably the wildebeest that show less caution and less patience and are first to get to the water. Thus they are more likely to be taken by the lions. I know of only one other animal, excluding elephants ( who don't care if the lions are at the waterhole) that are in a bigger rush to satiate their thirst and that is warthog.
BONGANI reports the gameviewing highlights in May 07 as follows :
On 6 May, his group found a group of five cheetah ( think 2,5 % of the entire Kruger population as per above figures ) walking along the main Orpen-Satara tar road. Ten km further, on the Timbavati loop, he found a leopard eating an impala on the ground near the road.
On 11 May, he saw the 1000+ herd of buffalo drinking at Nsemane Dam. He saw the same herd just north of Satara on 18 May, but this time they had five rhinos nearby. On the 23rd May, Bongani saw an elephant at Nsemane Dam playing around with the hippo herd. There was a standoff between the elephant and the hippo which were out of the water. After much posturing, the elephant eventually let out a loud trumpet blast and mock charged the hippo pod, which lost its nerve and retreated into the water. Later the same day, Bongani's group
came across lions on a buffalo kill and at the high level bridge over the Olifants river watched a pride of lions unsuccessfully hunt a small bachelor herd of impala.
CHARLES has been on long leave for most of the month. On the one occasion he conducted a safari, his group witnessed two near kills. The first was a pride of lions chasing an impala and the second, again at Nsemane Dam, was of a crocodile attempting to catch a monitor lizard. In both cases, Charles reckons the predator was too quick in attempting the kill.
ELVIS was luckier. On 4 May, he and his amazed clients saw two cheetah stalk and catch an impala. Shortly after the kill, a number of jackals appeared. While the cheetah were chasing these off, a large number of vultures descended on the carcass. The cheetah then, somewhat surprisingly, abandoned their catch.
Elvis also had his share of unsuccessful hunts. On 8 May, he even had two such " missed kills ". Near Satara, lions attempted to catch a warthog and made a hash of things and only 400 metres from Orpen Gate, a group of four cheetah chased and missed an impala.
NELLY reports as follows : Early in May, on a Sunset Drive at Tremisana, he came across the pride of 17 lions drinking at Tremisana Dam. On 10 May, he found a female cheetah 7 km from Orpen chasing but missing an impala. On 28 May, he was looking at four lionesses at Gudzani windmill. They were sunning themselves, when, all of a sudden, a big bull elephant appeared. He immediately put an end to the sunbathing and proceeded to chase the lions all over the place. One would have expected more gentlemanly behaviour......
ANTHONY spent only one day in Kruger towards the end of the month and promptly produced for his excited clients both a leopard and mother rhino and one month old calf.
MARCELLE also had a day in Kruger and added lion, elephant and buffalo to complete the husband and wife effort to show the guests the Big Five.
NEWS AT TREMISANA
We have signed a contract which will allow us access to a 1500 hectare area of Balule, called York, in which we shall be conducting game drives. Tremisana will thus join the ranks of private game lodges offering the traditional private lodge type safari with traversing on a private game reserve. We plan to build a new thatched recreation room overlooking the waterhole. The idea is to provide a place for clients to spend leisure time between brunch and high tea. Comfortable loungers will be provided and books on wildlife as well as wildlife DVD's will be available to our guests.
May is paint and varnish month at Tremisana. We have repainted the swimming pool and revarnished all wooden bridges and reed structures. All gumpoles have been creosoted and the insides of all the chalets have been repainted.
Even the Landcruiser had a touch up of green and black paint. It has had the seats recanvassed and Sidney, our resident fulltime mechanic, has overhauled the engine. He reckons it sounds as good as it did two years ago.
The monkey troop is now permanently based at Tremisana. Their noisy bickering as they compete for selected sleeping places in the trees is always a source of entertainment for our guests. We do not feed them and they forage for food throughout the adjoining veld, returning every day at around 17h00. They probably feel a lot safer inside the camp grounds as predators would be reluctant to tangle with the electric fence.
NEWS AT MARC'S TREEHOUSE LODGE
We were compelled to buy more blankets as the big freeze took effect. Ronald also built larger fires in the boma and clients abandoned their set places at the dinner table and happily ate their meals around the campfire ! All available hot-water bottles were put to good use.
The thatching team has been hard at work : rethatching roofs that monkeys have treated as playground slides; adding wire mesh to secure the roofs and putting a new thatch roof onto the new second toilet serving treehouse # 8.
With the increased demand for places at Marc's from South African tourists, we are in the process of building a small kitchen to serve the needs of self-catering clients. We are doing this at the very end of the property and will make treehouses #8 and #9 , the guesthouse and the two new tents available to self-catering guests. Of course if any of our overseas clients also wish to use these units, they are most welcome to do so.
The cold weather has resulted in the bushbaby and hyena calls resounding loudly through the treehouses. One couple from Norway had to be fetched for breakfast as they steadfastly believed that the " wild animals have laid siege to our treehouse ", and refused to leave the treehouse unaccompanied even though it was broad daylight.
Thankfully the nyala have the opposite effect. Instead of terrifying some guests, the nyala elicit a warm affection from most guests. This antelope moves in a dainty sort of way and the spots and stripes probably recall images of Bambi and hence the sighs of appreciation whenever the nyala are encountered. There are very few nyala in the Kruger. The main population occurs in the extreme north near Pafuri. We have seen nyala along the Timbavati River on the odd occasion, but most guests see them at Marc's and nowhere else. What amazes our clients is the sexual dimorphism clearly evident : nyala bulls have a shaggy dark brown coat and weigh over 100 kg while the ewes are fawn in colour and weigh around 60 kg. Note the opposite of "bull" is "ewe" in nyala. All antelope larger than male nyala ( eg kudu, wildebeest etc ) are called "bulls" and those antelope smaller ( eg impala, reedbuck etc ) are called "rams ".
NEWS AT CHEETAH INN
We have completed the aviary as well as the wooden balustrades around the new rooms. A false ceiling made of wooden lats has been erected in the main entrance hall, extending the "bush " feel from the outside into the hotel proper.
Marcelle has been busy with sewing and all the outside rondawels now have new curtains, bedspreads and matching upholstery on cushions of the cane furniture. The animal print we chose was approved enthusiastically by the representative of the AA, who came out this month to give very valuable advice and suggestions on further upgrades and improvements.
A family of banded mongoose has taken up residence near the back entrance to the kitchen. They are very punctual about their lunchtime and appear daily around 12h00 hoping to get some scraps from the kitchen. The banded mongoose is a stocky animal, with distinctive black bands on the back and flanks. They are gregarious, living in groups of up to 35, which include up to four breeding pairs. Packs move together but individuals forage independently. They guard their food jealously and mini-skirmishes can develop. Food consists of invertebrates, small reptiles and birds' eggs.
NEWS FOR OUR TRAVEL PARTNERS
As mentioned earlier in this newsletter, the proposed new program for Tremisana guests is now a reality.
We will test the product during the six month trial period we have contracted, starting from 1 July 07. If we find the venture successful, we shall implement the full day Balule Safari on our 2008 four and five day safaris to Tremisana. We have contracted a renewable three year tenure. A new guide will be employed solely for the private " Balule Safari " experience. His responsibilities will not only include game drives and walks but also involve entertaining the guests at the Lodge. We shall build a recreation room overlooking the waterhole and will have wildlife books and magazines available as well as wildlife movies. We shall build an open air chess board for those who wish to test their mental strength. We have a set of chess pieces, hand carved from Zimbabwe Teak.
Indaba 07 was successful. We renewed our friendships with members of the travel trade. I was amazed at the number of four and five star lodges that we have around Kruger Park. I was invited to lunch at one such five star lodge near Hoedspruit. I duly visited the place during the course of my May inspection of the three Viva establishments. This lodge is clearly opulently decorated and comfortably elegant. Lunch was well presented and thoroughly enjoyed. The only concern I had was that the tariff of R 9000 per person per night adds a different dimension to " value-for-money " as Viva Safaris knows it.
Our webmaster, Marco, has been working hard. After much persuasion, we have added a " Meet the Staff " file on the Viva Safaris website main page. We shall be adding more members of staff to this. Marco has completed the website for both Tremisana and Marc's as well as Anthony's Place and San's Place. You may look these up under www.tremisana.co.za; www.marcscamp.co.za; www.anthonysplace.co.za and www.sansplace.co.za . Anthony from Cheetah Inn has used his very considerable computer skills and is almost finished with the new Cheetah Inn website. Please see www.cheetahinn.co.za.
We are pleased to offer our supportive friends in the travel industry very reduced rates at San's Place.
This is a one-bedroomed apartment overlooking Umdloti beach on the Natal Dophin Coast. It is sure to be a very attractive incentive, especially for cold Gautengers in June. Please contact us via sandy@vivasafaris.co.za
Enjoy the rest of the quiet season.
Regards and best wishes
Piero
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