August 2008 has been a very dry month – not a drop of rain. The veld in Kruger is looking very exhausted. This has arisen because our rainfall this year has been well below average. It is amazing that, as I write this letter, lives are being lost in India and Cuba as a result of too much rain!
The shortage of water has led to problems with some of Kruger’s animals. One such problem involves crocodiles. I have been following a story about crocodile deaths in the Olifants River in Kruger. Since April this year there have been consistent crocodile mortalities in the eastern reaches of the Olifants River. Post mortems conducted on the crocodile carcasses have indicated that the crocodiles have succumbed to a condition called pansteatitis. This occurs as a result of the depletion of anti-oxidants in the bloodstream. The condition resul ts in the hardening of the crocodiles’ fat reserves into a rubbery mass. The crocodiles become lethargic and eventually die. Our top veterinary staff have been assisted by international experts on crocodiles in attempting to solve the issue.
I personally believe it has something to do with the blue-green algae I wrote about in previous newsletters. This algae, Microsystis, has resulted in mammal deaths at the Mahlangwazane Dam and Sunset Dam near Lower Sabie. This blue-green algae is a cyanobacteria and, under the right conditions, it can multiply rapidly to produce great masses of toxic algae. Once the concentration of microstysis in the water increases, the animals that drink the water can be poisoned. I trust that our scientists will find a solution quickly.
On a more positive note, the shortage of water has resulted in exceptional game viewing this August. It is really all very straightforward for our guides: simply drive from one watering point to the next and see what is available to view. It makes for periods of relative quiet while we are moving from one dam to the next as all the animals are concentrated within a 5 km radius of the water. The lions have become blasé about the situation. They no longer conceal themselves from the game species. I watched a lioness in the open, in full view of every animal within 500 metres, attempt to catch an impala at Nsemani Dam. See photo below.
Of course this situation will last as long as there is no rain – once the rains fall, it becomes a whole new and different story. I am often asked to predict when the rains will fall as this has such a significant effect on game-viewing. I tell our prospective clients that over the last 40 years that I am able to recall my experiences in Kruger, the first serious rains usually fall in the middle of October. Of course there are exceptions, but those of our guests who wish to see the dry season concentrations of animals, should get to Kruger before the n. It does not mean that tourists who visit after the rains are guaranteed to see very little - in fact some of our best sightings have occurred in the rainy months. What is definite though is that the numbers of animals will surely be fewer as the animals disperse in search of new grass.
Summer has its own attractions: the green grass and abundant foliage is more visually pleasing than the rugged browns and yellows that accompany the dusty dry season. Also recall that summertime is the season when the vast majority of animals have their young and it is very pleasing to see the abundant nurseries of young antelope frolicking on the grassy plains, while birdsong constantly fills the air.
Our guides will work a lot harder in summer to produce the sightings we have been accustomed to these last few months. Once again the reports I have received are absolutely stunning. I trust the guides are not making up stories...
GAMEVIEWING NEWS
BONGANI had his first day in Kruger this month on 2nd August and promptly collected the Big Five with consummate ease. He reports as follows: “At the Sweni Pan, we came across a big pride of lions that had laid an ambush for an approaching herd of thirsty zebra. A troop of baboons were up a big Leadwood tree and made a huge din once they saw the lions. The zebras stopped in their tracks and waited patiently. It was hot and I wondered what would happen next when a herd of elephants appeared from the dry river bed. The elephants were very aggressive towards the lions and chased them. The lions bolted and came running past the front of our vehicle, giving our guests a thrill and a bit of a scare!”.
On the 6th August, Bongani was driving towards Satara and heard the roaring of lions. He switched off the engine and heard the hysterical laughing of hyenas. Try as he did, he was unable to locate the kill. About 4 km further on, he did come across a giraffe kill – it just shows how far the calls can travel. There was a standoff between a group of about six hyenas and two lionesses.
An interesting sighting was of a brown snake eagle eating a lizard in a tree. As it fed, scraps of meat that were falling on the ground below, were being voraciously gobbled up by a slender mongoose.
On the 18th August, Bongani and his guests watched a pride of lions on the S 100 road gobbling as well. They polished off a kudu cow in less than an hour. The pride moved towards the watering spot for a drink and there came across a zebra. They managed to catch and kill it and Bongani says they polished off this, their second meal of the day, in 45 minutes. Bongani reports a sighting of a rare Black Rhino near the Nwanedzi picnic spot.
MESHACK has been operating his safaris around the Mudzanzene picnic spot area. He reckons that this zone is really excellent at the moment. There are regular sightings of White Rhino here - they are reasonably tame and afford good photographic opportunities. There is also a female cheetah with a sub-adult cub operating near the Rockvale waterhole where Meshack has seen them regularly.
He reports his sightings on 10th August as follows: “We saw a pride of eight lions on the road from Satara towards the Nwanedzi tar road t-junction. They came across a giraffe and pulled it down near the river bank. This pride spent the next 5 days at the carcass eating and lying around. Later on, in the afternoon, we came across three different sightings of leopard – a new record for me!”
BERTUS informs me that since he has started working for Viva Safaris he has had a few “first-ever-in-Kruger” sightings as well as some “lifer” = “first time in his life” experiences!
His first experience of a sighting of a Side-striped Jackal in Kruger was had at the beginning of the month when he and his lucky guests came across a single individual on the Timbavati Road, near the Orpen-Satara turnoff. These jackals are very rare indeed and are easily identified by the white tip to the tail. The much more common Black-backed Jackal is found throughout South Africa.
A first among the birds was a sighting of a Palm-Nut Vulture near Shibotwana waterhole on the S100. I am extremely jealous as I have never seen a Palm-nut Vulture in Kruger!!!
His report continues: “Lions were spotted on each and every drive in Kruger this month. So I am pleased to say that we are seeing a minimum of 3 of the Big Five as we never miss buffalo and elephant. There are a lot of Big Tuskers near the Ngotso-South watering hole. Further north we have located a hyena den in a culvert under the road. There are two hyena cubs of about six months and one younger cub of about two months.
I have seen an increase in the number of hippo in the Gudzane Dam. I am seeing White Rhino regularly near Ngirivane waterhole and have seen leopard regularly near Mudzanzeni. A big herd of rare Sable antelope are seen regularly at the Shimangwaneni Dam.”
His birding report is also good: “We got a Martial Eagle eating a dove in a tree right next to the road. We also saw a Tawny Eagle catch and eat a Scrub Hare. We found a Ground Hornbill eating a Leopard Tortoise as well as regular sightings of Kori Bustard, the heaviest flying bird in Kruger. The Scops Owls at Satara and Mudzanzeni picnic spot are still at their posts as always”.
Bertus is still having a great time on the Tremisana bush walks. He reports as follows:
"Sightings have fluctuated from ordinary one day to unbelievably good the next day. The buffalo herd is seen more often around Tremisana along with the lions that have developed a taste for buffalo. I know of five buffalo that were killed in the area in the month of August. The lions also kill giraffe regularly and one day we got a giraffe kill and a buffalo kill not even 100 metres apart from each other” ;
His sightings of Rhino have improved this month. “The rhino produced some memorable sightings near the Tshukudu fence-line. We were watching rhino and heard a lion roaring. We walked in the direction of the roaring and managed to see the lion. We were amazed to witness a fight between two rhino bulls through a game fence. They felt nothing for the electric wires and in their anger managed to do a considerable amount of damage to the fence.
I am pleased to report that on my most recent walks, I have been seeing two rhinos right near Tremisana. I have also located a porcupine hole as well as a hyena den on the property.”
TOBY had some great sightings this month, starting with four White Rhino adults and a calf less than 150 metres from the main lodge at Marc’s Treehouse Lodge. This made a great welcome to those guests who were about to spend their first night in the African bush!
“On the 16th and 17th of August, four leopard sightings put big smiles on the faces of my guests. This was especially evident as one leopard sat proudly in the sun just 15 metres away from the vehicle. No doubt some great photos were taken before she disappeared into the dry riverbed of the Nwanedzi on the S 100.”
Another great photographic opportunity happened on the 19th August at the Sweni Bird Hide where Toby and his guests watched with great anticipation as a young Bushbuck weaved its way among 13 crocodiles that were basking in the sun. “It successfully made its way through the labyrinth and, after a refreshing drink, it faced the challenge again and found its way safely to its anxious mother”. Unfortunatel y Toby reports that the eight Egyptian goslings born at the Hide last month didn’t seem to be as fortunate as the young bushbuck. Perhaps they were hiding somewhere.
His report continues: “Elephants are plentiful everywhere at the moment and several very large herds were seen between Orpen and Satara. On the 19th August we came across a herd of over 200 individuals. A herd of buffalo roughly this size was seen near Mahungumula Pan only a few km from two White Rhino we came across under the shade of a tree less than 20 metres from the road.”
As Toby is a very keen birdwatcher, his guests were privileged to see some outstanding sightings including Pink-backed Pelican and three of our best storks: Yellow-billed Stork; Saddle-billed Stork and Wooly-necked Stork. “The most impressive bird sighting of the month was of a really close Giant Eagle Owl. The guests were given a fantastic opportunity to get some brilliant shots of this owl with its unique p ink eyelids”
NELLY reports a sighting of a leopard crossing the road right in front of his vehicle.
On the same day his guests saw a pride of lions with cubs and a cheetah with near-adult cub. He reports further: “On the 14th August about 10 km from Orpen, we came across two White Rhino crossing the road. Near Rabelais Dam we saw a leopard up a Leadwood tree calmly looking at a herd of impala and a group of warthogs about 200 metres away. We waited over 30 minutes for something to happen, hoping that the im pala or warthog would get closer. Unfortunately this did not happen and the leopard went to sleep. About 10 km further on, we found a Black Rhino at the Welverdiend waterhole.”
The very next day Nelly came across a pride of six lions that had caught a wildebeest. A large contingent of hyena and vultures were patiently waiting for the lions to finish. What was interesting was that four young cubs were climbing all over the dead wildebeest, rolling in its blood.
Nelly reports sighting some very large herds this month, for example on 30th he came across about 300 buffaloes and about 200 elephants just south of Satara. Nelly also reports having some excellent Sunset drives at Tremisana: lots of general game as well as good sightings of Buffalo, Leopard and White Rhino.
THULANI reports seeing an all female lion pride attempt unsuccessfully to catch a big giraffe bull at Welverdiend Pan on the Sweni Road. More successful was a pride of four lionesses and cubs that pulled down a younger giraffe near Nwanedzi bridge. Thulani is seeing a rhino bull regularly at Kumana Dam. The dam is dry but the rhino is always found lying in the water in the cement trough.
Thulani had a great experience at the Mudzanzeni picnic spot. “A big male leopard was in full view of all the people at the picnic spot. He crept up to some impalas that were drinking at the trough. It took him almost 20 minutes to move a distance of 11 metres. All the time he was at most 50 cm from the ground. When he got to within 10 metres of the herd, he was noticed and the alarm calls resounded across the veld. Within three seconds there wasn’t an impala to be seen and the leopard skulked away, clearly disappointed.”
On another occasion towards the end of the month, Thulani and guests were held up for over half an hour by a big herd of elephants near the Sweni waterhole. He had to rush in order to make the gate closing time. Usually the Park authorities are reluctant to believe stories about elephants blocking the road, but I can assure them that it does sometimes happen. I, for one, would rather take my chances with a fine for being late than chance it with an enraged elephant!
This month I also had a good day in Kruger. I traveled from 14h00 one mid-August afternoon and exited from the Kruger Park at around 16h20. In this period (under four and a half hours) I not only saw the Big Five, but had some great photos, some of which I include below:
  
NEWS AT TREMISANA GAME LODGE
The work of digging a deeper dam is complete. It took almost 2 weeks to deepen the dam and we are told that its capacity is now at least three times what it previously was. We now expectantly await the rains to see whether the dam will be filled. As mentioned in a previous newsletter, we have built a game-viewing hide right near Tremisana Dam. It is equipped with insect-proof screens and has a toilet and wash hand basin in an adjoining room. The dam is illuminated by a powerful spotlight. There is sufficient place in the hide for a few mattresses – so any tourist who is keen to spend the night there is welcome to do so – we just need some rain first!
We have completed the fitting of the third chalet assigned to tourists with physical disabilities. The rails and built-in beds will be of great benefit to our prospective clients.
The gardens have taken a pounding from the hungry animals. Along with the ever-present monkeys, our regular visitors include warthog, duiker, baboons and porcupine. They have successfully dug out a number of bulbs and plants in their quest to find something edible.
A herd of around 30 buffalo have been seen in the vicinity of the artificial watering hole in front of the Lapa. Their insatiable thirst has resulted in our having to fill the cement trough three times a day.
Pearl reports the sighting of a giraffe that has visible claw marks on its rump – evidence of an attempted kill by the resident lion pride. This giraffe is always close to the camp and even eats the leaves of trees growing inside the lodge grounds.
NEWS AT MARC’S TREEHOUSE LODGE
Treehouse number Two has tilted sufficiently, as a result of the irregular growth of the branches that support it, to warrant reflooring it. We have four such original treehouses that are dependent on regular, even growth of branches. Every three or four years we have the hassle of redoing the floors. Although not en suite because of their position high in the trees, these original treehouses are the favourites of some of our regular repeat visitors. Our remaining treehouses are built on stilts and are all en suite. These have no problem with tree growth. Ronald has been busy with the staff in refurbishing all these units.
Our buffalo are becoming too tame. With the shortage of food, they amble into the camp proper and have shown absolutely no fear of humans. This is a potential problem as the buffalo look to humans to supply fodder as has happened in the past. We emphasise the need to keep well away from all wild animals, no matter how strong the unlikely urge to cuddle them, despite their weighing over 750 kg and being armed with deadly horns!
Lauren & Toby watching the buffalo at Marc's Camp
Lauren has settled in as hostess and we have had some great reports about the fun way she treats all our guests. Toby, in between conducting safaris in Kruger, has also assisted in the hosting at Marc’s and has also done sterling work.
The nyala are full-time visitors to the pool area at Marc’s and make for excellent photographic opportunities such as the one I took. See below.
NEWS AT THE CHEETAH INN
We have started with the installation of air-conditioners at Cheetah Inn. All the outside rondawels have been completed and the hotel rooms will be done by the end of September. Pearl has graciously agreed to sew the insect proof screens for the windows of the rondawels. We shall be adding burglar proofing as well.
Toby has undertaken to supervise the clearing of the 9 hectare piece of land across the road. A path has been cleared for possible walks and the rubbish dump has been cleaned up comprehensively.
NEWS FOR OUR TRAVEL PARTNERS
As mentioned in my last newsletter (July 2008) we have embarked upon a new challenge: Volunteer Safaris. We shall be offering a ten day program - a great mix of service, safaris and fun in the sun. We shall offer an opportunity for volunteers to do serious outreach work while at the same time enjoy our wildlife. Viva will subsidise all the volunteers on this program. Marco, our Webmaster, is busy setting up our website. We have identified a number of schools as well as a church in the Acornhoek area that qualify eminently for assistance in terms of our proposed outreach program. I shall be personally interviewing the headmasters and Father Xico in order to determine the specific needs of the community. Our volunteer safaris will commence in 2009.
I shall be approaching my connections in the building and construction industry with a view to getting good rates for materials we may need in building. The need to build is very urgent! For example, the Westcoast group organized by Lisa Cohen that worked at Shilekhisi school noted that the kitchen that feeds the schoolchildren comprises simply of a grill above an open fire. Similarly Father Xico informs me that the church in Acornhoek has two walls but no roof! I shall be taking photos on my September visit to fully depict how dire the need really is.
We reaffirm our decision NOT to increase our rates for 2008. Despite the increases in petrol and food prices, we are absorbing the additional costs and will be effecting our yearly price increases only in January 2009. I assure you that the maintaining of our tariffs will in no way detract from our good service.
I include hereunder some of the excellent comments which were written in our Guestbook's during August 2008:
TREMISANA:
Annabel Pacula, 8 August 08: “A great big THANK YOU to all of the staff. I traveled here alone and never once felt lonely. The food, chat and knowledge is amazing. Thank you to all the drivers and guides and to Bertus for his enthusiasm and jokes. Thank you all so much”
The Wilkinsons, 15 August 08, melbawilkinson@tiscali.co.uk: “We had a wonderful time. The staff are all lovely. Pearl is a real pearl! Bertus – your stories and patience are great! I shall have to come back so that Nelly can show us the leopard”
TC and Weilynn Chong, 28 August 08, weilynn_chong@hotmail.com: “Thank you so much for your tireless efforts to make us feel so much at home. We have had a fantastic first impression of Africa and look forward to returning to Tremisana as soon as possible. Take care”
MARCS TREEHOUSE LODGE:
John White, 7 August 08, jswhite@vt.edu: “Excellent food, great atmosphere and incredible staff. Kruger Park was memorable and ultimately one of the best vacations of my life! Look for me in the future to make more appearances”
Marije Koeman, 13 August 08, marijakoeman@hotmail.com: “Thanks for the wonderful treehouse experience! We enjoyed the campfires and the safaris. Great food and very nice staff. I enjoyed the whole atmosphere around here”
Mark and Jessica Lonergan, 19 August 08, parallelexit@hotmail.com: “It was ALL wonderful!
The food, the guides and our fabulous treehouse! Lauren is a lovely host! Thank you so much for a memorable experience!”
Rachel Dorai, 24 August 08, blackvenom@hotmail.com, “This has been the most amazing experience. I came with 2% knowledge of mammals and leave with 70% - thanks to Toby! Thank you for being a great guide! Thank you, Lauren, for being the most bubbly host ever. I enjoyed my stay here and it won’t be my last!”
Hello Piero,
I've been at Marc's Treehouse Lodge from the 23rd to 26th July 2008. I'd like to say many thanks to all the staff from Viva Safaris because of your professional and kind treat we received.
I would like to express my sincere thanks to our tour guide in the Kruger National Park, Tourani" (I don't know exactly how you spell it). He is a great guide and a kindest person. He has all the aptitudes to be the best guide in the Kruger and furthermore to know the animals and the knowledge of the wild life, he has the imporant skill of transfer it to the visitors.
Please, let him know that me and my friend Ignacio and I think that all people who came with him the last 26th July to the park, we enjoy the most our tour and appreciate his dedication.
Overall, he also drive to Jo'burg the 27th and even he was very tired, he never missed his good sense of humor and kindness.
In conclusion, I'm sure that you want your business go on so don't let him go!
Thanks again.
Best regards,
Anna
Some more interesting and unusual photos:
 
Buffalo die unusual death after getting entangled in each anothers horns.
 
I wish you a good September - designated in South Africa as Tourism Month.
With kind regards,
Piero
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